Uus 17 suu Wind Turbine

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See lehekülg on natuke uuendatud oma 17 jala tuuliku disain. The old page is HERE and explains in some detail how we built our first 17 foot turbine. Vana leht on SIIN ja selgitatakse üksikasjalikult, kuidas on ehitatud meie esimese 17 jala turbiini. This version contains several updates. See versioon sisaldab mitmeid uuendusi. We built the first one over 3 years ago. Me ehitasime esimese 3 aasta jooksul tagasi. While the first one has been a pretty good machine, we have suffered a couple of stator burnouts. Kuigi esimene on päris hea masin, oleme kannatanud paar staatori Burnouts. The new version features larger rotors, slightly stronger magnets, slightly bigger coils wound with thicker wire and lower resistance (less heat in the stator). Uue versiooni omadustest suuremate rootorid, veidi tugevamad magnetid, mis on veidi suuremad rullid haav paksem traat ja vähendada vastuseisu (vähem kuumuse staatori). The new arrangement really seems to make for quite an honest 3kW machine and we've seen peaks of nearly twice that. Uus kord tõesti tundub, et teha üsna aus 3kW masin ja me oleme näinud piigid peaaegu kaks korda suurem.

We get a lot of email from people who are on the power grid who have great interest in building something like this to 'save on utility bills'. Me saame palju posti inimestelt, kes on elektrivõrkudele, kellel on suur huvi hoone midagi sellist, et "säästa kommunaalmaksed. We have had a couple of these machines grid tied with good results, but... Meil on olnud paar masinate võrku seotud häid tulemusi, kuid ... keep in mind the payback period is likely to be quite a while, or, possibly never depending on how well you take care of your batteries. Pea meeles, tasuvusaeg on tõenäoliselt üsna samal ajal, või olla kunagi, sõltuvalt sellest, kui hästi te hoolitseda oma akusid. Batteries are expensive! Patareid on kallis! This machine is specifically designed for battery charging and it's probably quite useful and cost effective for people who already have 24, or 48V renewable energy systems in place. See masin on konkreetselt mõeldud aku laadimist ja see on ilmselt üsna kasulik ja tasuv neile, kes on juba 24 või 48V taastuva energia süsteemid. For more information about wind power basics check out this page: http://otherpower.com/bottom_line.shtml . Lisateavet tuuleenergia põhitõed check out this page: http://otherpower.com/bottom_line.shtml.

metallist osad 17 suu tuuliku

Pictured above are most of the metal parts with the exception of the tail boom, tail vane bracket and the piece of pipe that fits between the yaw bearing, and the alternator head. Pildil on eespool enamus metallist osad, välja arvatud saba poom, saba tuulelipp sulg ja tükk toru, mis sobib vahel lengerduskiirus laager, ja generaatorist pead. This page is not meant to serve as plans, but more of a diary - with some specific details about how we build this machine. See lehekülg ei ole mõeldud selleks, et teenida nagu plaanid, kuid rohkem Kalender - mõned üksikasjad selle kohta, kuidas me ehitame selle masina. You should read our page about 10 foot diameter wind turbine construction for more details. Sa peaksid lugema meie lehel umbes 10 jala läbimõõduga tuuliku ehitus lisateavet. Between that page, and this one - you should be able to put most of it together. Vahel sellele lehele ja see üks - peaksite saama panna enamik seda koos. If you have questions we're happy to take your email. Kui teil on küsimusi meelega võtta e-posti.
1 - Stator bracket gussets. 1 - Staatori sulg gussets. These are triangular pieces to stiffen the stator bracket. Need on kolmnurksed nupud kangestuma staatori tugi. They're made from 1/4 inch steel. Nad on valmistatud 1 / 4 tollise terasest. They're 6 inches long, 1.5 inches tall at one end, and 1/2 inch tall at the Nad on 6 tolli pikk, 1,5 inches tall ühes otsas ja 1 / 2 tolline pikk kell

2 - Wheel Hub. 2 - Wheel Hub. This is a wheel hub for a trailer, I believe it's designed for a 6000 pound axle. See on rattarummu haagise puhul, ma usun, et see on mõeldud £ 6.000 telg. I get these from South West Wheel company HERE . Ma saan neid alates Edela Ratta ettevõtte SIIT. It comes with bearings and its a #42 spindle which is available from the same company. Kaasas laagrid ja selle # 42 spindel, mis on saadaval sama firma. This hub fits between the magnet rotors. See keskus sobib vahel magnet rootorid. The back rotor fits right up against the back of the hub and often times we have to turn the back of the hub slightly on a lathe so that the rotor will come flush to the back of the wheel hub. Tagasi rootor sobib õigus kuni vastu taga rummu ja sageli korda peame pöörduma tagasi ja Rummu veidi treipingi nii, et rootor tulevad hood, et taga ratta rummu.

3 - Spindle housing. 3 - Spindli eluase. This is the bit that the stator bracket is welded to - it supports the spindle in its center. See on natuke, et staatori tugi on keevitada - see toetab võlli oma keskuses. Its 5 inch diameter sched. Selle 5-tolline läbimõõt sched. 40 pipe, 5.75 inches long. 40 toru, 5,75 tolli pikk.

4 - Stator bracket. 4 - Staatori sulg. It has 6 'arms' which support the stator. Tal on 6 "relvade", mis toetavad staatori. It's cut from 1/4 inch thick steel. See on lõigatud 1 / 4 tolli paks teras. The hole in the center is 2.25 inches in diameter. Auguga keskel on 2,25 tolli läbimõõduga. The holes at the end are 5/8 inch in diameter (to allow for the 5/8 inch all thread studs we use to hold the stator on with) Augud lõpus on 5 / 8 tollise läbimõõduga (võimaldada 5 / 8 tolline kõik thread studs me kasutame korraldada staatori kohta koos)

5 - Yaw Bearing. 5 - lengerdusjuhtimine pidades. The yaw bearing is the pipe that fits over the tower stub. Kursist, millel on toru, mis sobib üle torni Välislingid. It's 4 inch diameter pipe, 30 inches long. It's 4 tollise läbimõõduga toru, 30 tolli pikk.

6 - Magnet Rotors. 6 - Magnet rootorid. They're cut from 1/2 inch thick steel and they're 18 inches in diameter. Nad on lõigatud 1 / 2 tolli paksune teras ja nad on 18 tolli läbimõõduga. We put 6 holes (for cooling, and front rotor adjustment) around the center. Asetame 6 auku (jahutus ja ees rootori reguleerimiseks) keskpunkti ümber. They're 1.75 inches in diameter evenly spaced around a 4 inch radius. Nad on 1,75 tolli läbimõõduga ühtlaselt umbes 4 tollise raadiusega. Of course we also have 6 holes for the studs 5/8 inch in diameter and 6 holes in the front rotor to be tapped 1/2-13 tpi for jacking screws. Muidugi on meil ka 6 avade naastud 5 / 8 tollise läbimõõduga ja 6 augud ees rootor tuleb ära 1/2-13 TPI jaoks tõstmine kruvid.

7 - Spindle. 7 - Spindli. It's a standard #42 spindle that fits the hub - we get that from South West Wheel company. See standard # 42 spindel, mis sobib Rummu - saame, et alates Edela Ratta ettevõte.

8 - Yaw Bearing Cap. 8 - lengerdusjuhtimine Pidades Cap. It's cut from 1/4 inch steel and fits in the top of the yaw bearing. See on lõigatud 1 / 4 tollise teras ja sobib Üles lengerduskiirus laager. It's 4 inches outer diameter and 1.25 inches inner diameter. See on 4 tolli välisläbimõõt ja 1,25 tolli sisemise läbimõõdu. The 4" diameter fits inside the top of the yaw bearing, the 1.25 inch hole in the center is for the line (wires from the alternator) to pass through into the tower. 4 "läbimõõt sobib sees Üles lengerduskiirus laager, 1,25-tolline auk keskel on joon (traadid generaatorist) läbida arvesse torn.

9 - Rear spindle support. 9 - tagumine spindel toetust. This is the part that fits in the back of the Spindle Housing (part #3). See on osa, mis sobib taga Spindle Housing (osa # 3). It's 6 inches outer diameter (to fit inside the 6 inch pipe that the spindle housing is made from) and has a hole 2.25 inches diameter (so the spindle fits into it) See on 6 tolli välisläbimõõt (sobivaks sees 6 tolline toru, et võlli korpus on valmistatud) ning on auk 2,25 tolli läbimõõt (nii spindle sobib see)

10 - Tail Pivot. 10 - Saba Pivot. It's 24 inches long made from 2 inch pipe. See 24 tolli pikk valmistatud 2 tolline toru.

11 - Tail Bearing. 11 - Saba pidades. This is the part to which the tail boom is welded and it rotates on the tail pivot as the machine furls. See on osa mis saba buum on keevitatud ja see vahetub kohta saba konksude kui masinat furls. It has a notch cut out which is 9 inches long (from the bottom) and about half the pipe (180 deg of the pipe is cut out) - a bit less is OK or even better, it's not critical. See on sälk lõigatud mis on 9 tolli pikk (alt) ja umbes pool toru (180 kraadi ja toru lõigatud) - veidi vähem on OK või veel parem, see ei ole kriitiline.

12 - This is the 'scrap' from cutting out the notch for the tail bearing. 12 - See on "jäägid" alates lõikamist läbi pügala eest saba laager. We'll weld this back to the tail bearing to strengthen it. Me keevitada seda tagasi saba pidades seda tugevdada.

13 - Blade Hubs. 13 - Blade sõlmpunktides. Overall they're 28 inches in diameter with 3 spars, 10 inches wide. Üldiselt nad 28 tolli läbimõõduga 3 peeled, 10 tolli lai. We won't go into detail here. Me ei hakka üksikasjalikult siin. Obviously they need to have the 6 holes for the studs on a 5.5 inch circle to accomodate the studs. Loomulikult peavad nad olema 6 avade naastud on 5,5 tolline ringi tulla mansetinööbid. Then we have 5 more holes (5/8 inch diameter) for bolts to go through the blades. Siis on meil veel 5 auku (5 / 8 tolline läbimõõt) on poldid läbida laba. All these holes are 5/8 inch diameter. Kõik need augud on 5 / 8 tolli läbimõõt. The rear blade hub has a 3 inch diameter hole in its center so that the grease cap on the hub can fit into it. Tagumine tera Rattal on 3-tollise läbimõõduga auk tema keskel, nii et määre otsikuga Rummu mahub ta.

Again, missing from the picture above: the tail boom, 1.5 inch pipe and 8 foot 6 inches long. Jällegi puudub pildi üleval: tail boom, 1.5 tollise toru ja 8 jala 6 tolli pikk. The tail vane bracket (helps support the tail vane) is 1.5 inch x 1/4 inch bar stock, 4 feet long. Saba tuulelipp bracket (aitab toetada saba tuulelipp) on 1,5-tolline x 1 / 4 tollise baari varu, 4 jalga pikk. We also put a gusset beneath the tail boom (it's welded on one end to the tail bearing and on the other end to the tail boom) and it's usually about 70 inches long. Samuti pannakse Vahvikekolmio all saba buum (see keevitatakse otsa saba laager ja teine ots saba poom) ja see on tavaliselt umbes 70 tolli pikk. There are a couple of smaller gussets between that gusset and the tail boom to make things more rigid. On paar väiksemat gussets vahel, et Vahvikekolmio ja saba Boom teha asja jäigemaks. We call those 'tail boom gusset gussets.' Me kutsume neid "saba Boom Vahvikekolmio gussets." Another part not shown is the tail bracket. Teine osa ei ole näidatud on saba sulg. It's the part that fits between the yaw bearing and the tail pivot. See osa, mis sobib vahel lengerduskiirus laager ja saba pivot. It's another triangular part cut from 1/2 inch thick steel. See on teine kolmnurkne osa lõigatakse 1 / 2 tolli paksune teras. It's 9 inches long, one inch wide at the bottom and cut at 20 degrees. See on 9 tolli pikk, ühe tollise laiuse põhja ja lõigatud 20 kraadi. The next picture will hopefully clarify that a bit. Järgmine pilt loodetavasti selgitada, et natuke.

keevitus saba sulg, et saba pivot

Pictured above is the previously mentioned tail bracket being setup for welding to the tail pivot. Pildil on eespool juba mainitud saba sulg on setup keevitamiseks, et saba pivot. To get things nicely centered we mill a 3/8 inch slot into a piece of angle iron so that we're sure to get it perfectly centered and aligned with the pipe that is the tail pivot. Asjad kenasti centered me mill 3 / 8 inch slot võtta tükk nurk rauda, et me pole kindel, et saada täiesti keskele ja viidud vastavusse toru, mis on saba pivot.

Alternator peaga kokku keevitatud

The picture above shows the whole alternator head pretty much finished. Ülaltoodud pildil on näidatud kogu generaatorist peaga üsna valmis. You can see how the stator bracket gussets, stator bracket, spindle housing and rear spindle support go together. Näete, kui staatori tugi gussets, staatori sulg, spindle eluaseme ja tagumine spindel toetust käivad käsikäes. We also cut a 4.5 inch diameter hole (slightly oval shaped) into the spindle housing (that piece of 5 inch diameter pipe) to accommodate a short piece of 4 inch pipe which will connect this whole assembly to the yaw bearing. Samuti lõigatakse 4,5 tollise läbimõõduga auk (veidi ovaalse kujuga) arvesse spindle korpuses (et tükk 5 tollise läbimõõduga toru), et mahutada lühikese tükikese 4 tolline toru, mis ühendab kogu see paigaldatakse lengerduskiirus laager.

alternator jigged kuni keevituse

The alternator head jigged up to weld to the yaw bearing. Alternator pea jigged kuni keevitada et lengerduskiirus laager. The above mentioned 4 inch pipe is overall 6 inches long so that the alternator spindle is off set from the center of the yaw bearing (and the tower) by 8.5 inches. Eespool nimetatud 4 tolline toru on üldiselt 6 tolli pikk, nii et generaatorist spindel on tasaarveldatud kesklinnast lengerduskiirus laager (ja torn) 8,5 tolli. Look again at the 10 foot wind turbine plans to see how we do this without a jig. Vaata uuesti 10 suu tuuliku plaane, kuidas me seda teha ilma Gigue. In the picture above we are using a jig we made - it makes life easier if you're making more than one machine but it's not necessary. Ülaltoodud pildil me kasutame koordinaatpuurpinkide tegime - see teeb elu lihtsamaks, kui oled rohkem kui ühe seadme, kuid see ei ole vajalik.

metalli tööd 17 jala tuuliku lõppenud

Pictured above all the metal work for a 17 foot wind turbine is finished. Pildil ennekõike metalli tööd 17 jala tuuliku on lõppenud. At this point we take down (I say down... because we're 40 miles from, and 3500 feet above TOWN and they do all the powder coating in town) all the parts, including the magnet rotors and the blade hubs and have them powder coated. Siinkohal võtame alla (ütlen ette ... sest meil on 40 miili kaugusel ja 3500 jalga üle linna ja nad kõik Pulbervärvimine linna) kõik osad, sealhulgas magnet tiivikud ning tera rummud on neid pulbriga kaetud.

Ilusti pulverimaalaus 17 suu tuuliku metalli tööd

Powder coat is nice, very durable and for the price of getting it done I could hardly justify the expense of good automotive paint and my time spraying it on. Pulber karv on ilus, väga vastupidavad ja hind saada seda teha ma ei vaevu õigustada kulul hea auto värvi ja minu ajal pihustada seda. We powder coat all our stuff these days. Me pulber karv kõik meie asjad need päevad.

teise pildi ilusti pulverimaalaus 17 suu tuuliku

There's a picture of the same machine from the front. Seal on pilt sama masinasse ees. Now we can move on to other parts of the project. Nüüd saame liikuda teistesse osadesse projekti.